Unicorn peak + Boundary

This weekend we'll head to Mount Rainier National Park for an ascent of Unicorn Peak, the highest point in the Tatoosh Range, with Boundary Peak as an optional second summit for those who want to extend the day.
Unicorn Peak offers spectacular views of Mount Rainier, Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens, and, on exceptionally clear days, Mount Hood. Boundary Peak sits just southeast of Unicorn and has a rocky summit with 360-degree views, including an excellent perspective of Mount Rainier. SummitPost notes that the two peaks can be combined for a full-day outing.
This is NOT a standard hiking trip. The final summit of Unicorn requires exposed Class 4–5.6 rock climbing, while Boundary Peak involves exposed scrambling on rocky terrain. The Unicorn summit requires a short roped climb and rappel.
We'll be making friends, staying fit, being polite and having fun!
We will first meet at the south lot of the Green Lake Park & Ride. Carpooling from there is encouraged, but you are also welcome to meet us directly at the Snow Lake Trailhead on Stevens Canyon Road.

### Hike / Climb Info

Difficulty: Very Hard / Technical
Length: ~6 miles round trip to Unicorn; longer with Boundary Peak
Elevation Gain: ~2,400+ feet
Unicorn Peak: 6,971 feet
Boundary Peak: 6,780 feet
Location: Tatoosh Range, Mount Rainier National Park
Trailhead: Snow Lake Trailhead
The approach begins on a good trail toward Snow Lake. From there, the route becomes much more rugged, climbing a steep chute and talus/scree slopes toward the west saddle of Unicorn Peak.
From the saddle we continue toward the Unicorn summit block. The pinnacle can be climbed via several routes ranging from Class 4 to Class 5.6, with the summit section approximately 40–50 feet long.

### Optional Boundary Peak

After Unicorn, Boundary Peak will be an optional second summit for anyone who wants to continue and who is comfortable with exposed scrambling.
Boundary Peak is the second-highest peak in the Tatoosh Traverse and sits just southeast of Unicorn. Its rocky summit provides 360-degree views, including Mount Rainier across the valley. SummitPost describes the easiest approach as a scramble along Boundary's southeast ridge.
The route from Unicorn involves descending along the ridge, scrambling around several rocky sections and pinnacles, then continuing toward Boundary's summit block. The final section can be scrambled by choosing easier terrain around the rocky outcrops.
Boundary Peak is optional. Anyone who prefers to finish after Unicorn can return with the main group rather than continuing to the second summit.
Conditions and route difficulty will determine whether Boundary Peak is attempted. The ridge can contain significant exposure, and conditions can change quickly.

### Important — Technical Climbing

This trip is intended for people who understand that the Unicorn summit is a technical mountaineering/climbing objective, not simply a strenuous hike.
Please do not sign up expecting a normal trail hike to the summit.
For anyone climbing the Unicorn summit block, appropriate equipment may include:

• Climbing harness
• Helmet
• Climbing shoes or appropriate approach shoes
• Rope
• Appropriate climbing protection
• Belay/rappel equipment
• Personal climbing gear appropriate to your experience
• Ten hiking essentials

The Unicorn summit routes are approximately 40–50 feet long, and SummitPost describes a 30 m rope as sufficient for the climb and rappel, along with a small rack for the described routes.

### Weather & Conditions

Mountain conditions can change rapidly. In summer, much of the route can become a steep talus and scree climb, particularly on the approach to Unicorn's west saddle.
Boundary Peak can also involve exposed scrambling and rocky terrain. SummitPost notes that the ridge between Unicorn and Boundary can develop large cornices in winter, although these are generally not the primary concern during summer conditions.
If weather, road conditions, rock conditions, wildfire smoke, or other mountain conditions are unfavorable, the climb may be modified, shortened, or cancelled.

### Parking / Entrance Permit

Mount Rainier National Park entrance fee or valid National Park pass
Please make sure you have the appropriate park pass before arriving.

### Attendance

We try to keep our group size to around a dozen as a courtesy to other hikers and climbers and to reduce the number of cars at the trailhead.
The Going list may have a larger number to accommodate no-shows.
Folks on the Wait list may not attend until they are moved to the Going list. When folks drop from the Going list, people are added from the Wait list.
Because this is a technical climb, being on the Going list does not automatically guarantee participation in the Unicorn summit climb. Final participation in the technical section will depend on experience, equipment, conditions, and the group's climbing leaders.

### Carpooling

We will limit total attendees while drivers are selected from the Wait list. Drivers will be placed first as Going, and then we will fill with passengers as space allows, so everyone who comes to the P&R has a ride to the trail.
Riders MUST reimburse drivers for gas. Reimburse a minimum of $60 if one passenger, $35 for two passengers, and $25 for three passengers. Cash, Venmo, or Zelle.

### What to Bring

• Athletic clothing appropriate for mountain weather
• Rain/wind gear
• Hiking shoes/boots with good traction
• Plenty of water
• Snacks & lunch
• Sun protection
• Headlamp
• Hiking poles
• Ten hiking essentials
• Helmet
• Harness and climbing equipment if participating in the technical section
• Extra layers for the summit

Bring plenty of water and food. The upper route is exposed and can be hot and dusty in summer.

### Schedule

6:00 am: Meet at the south lot of Green Lake P&R
6:00 am: Leave for the trailhead
~8:30–9:00 am: Arrive at Snow Lake Trailhead
~6–8 hours: Approach, climb, summit, photos and descent
Optional: Continue to Boundary Peak for a second summit
~4:00–6:00 pm: Return to Snow Lake Trailhead
~6:00 pm: Drive back toward Seattle
~8:30–9:30 pm: Arrive back at Green Lake P&R
Actual timing will depend heavily on accessibility of the park entry, the group's pace, climbing logistics, route conditions, and whether we attempt Boundary Peak.