Cahors, the Original Malbec

First wine dinner of the new year. We'll explore the wines of Southwest France, focusing on Cahors, the original source of the Malbec grape. Cahors was traditionally known as the "black wine," for its inky intensity. And I find it has more earthy complexity than its Argentine counterpart. We'll try five different producers in five vintages, some quite mature, and start out with a white from Jurancon, based on the Gros and Petit Manseng grapes. Most wines were obtained at deep discount, and I pass the savings on to you.

We'll return to our old standby, Harper's in Dobbs Ferry.

https://www.harpersonmain.com/

2017 Camin Larredya La Part Davant Jurançon Sec $27
Guide Hachette des Vins 2020: Un jurançon sec issu des deux mansengs assemblés au courbu et au camaralet, deux autres cépages locaux. Vinifié et élevé en foudre et en barrique, il présente un nez franc, entre fleurs blanches et zeste d'orange, et une bouche à la fois veloutée et vive.

2009 Château de Chambert Cahors $37
Guide Hachette des Vins 2015 ★★ – Dominé par les fruits noirs au nez, ce 2009 se révèle très abouti au palais : souplesse et suavité le disputent à la fraîcheur, le tout porté par des tanins finement fondus dans le boisé.

Wine Spectator 90 – Focused and vibrant, with plenty of juiciness to the crushed red fruit flavors, joined by intense raspberry and red currant notes. Powerful dark chocolate accents fill the finish, which offers lots of spice.

Wine Enthusiast 91 – A beautifully perfumed wine. It shows an elegant side to Cahors, offering intense and juicy blackberry fruit that override the dark tannins. The wine has weight and power and remains finely proportioned.

2013 Château Eugénie Cuvée Tsar Pierre le Grand Cahors $14
Wine Enthusiast 90 – This wine is very structured and firm. With some barrel aging, the tannins have been smoothed out although the wine remains with a dry core and fresh acidity. Black-currant flavors dominate, giving a wine that is bright and fruity at the end.
Wine Spectator 89 – A fresh, medium-bodied red with plenty of wild red berry and tangy blackberry fruit, paired with olive and bay leaf accents. Smooth, integrated tannins and a strong, fluid acidity provide solid structure, while hot stone and savory spice notes fill the finish.

2014 Château de Rouffiac La Passion Cahors $16
Guide Hachette des Vins 2018 ★ – Issue de malbec élevé douze mois en barrique, cette cuvée présente une robe profonde et un nez intense de fruits noirs et rouges rehaussés de notes vanillées. On retrouve ces arômes complexes, relevés d'épices, dans une bouche charpentée et harmonieuse, à la finale fraîche et réglissée. Déjà agréable, ce vin vieillira avec grâce.

2015 Château du Port Cuvée Prestige Cahors $12
Wine Enthusiast 90 – This wine comes from a 15-acre vineyard on gravel soil. It is strongly mineral, packed with tannins and richly dense. The black fruits balance the structure of this ripe wine, while acidity keeps it fresh and shows that the wine could age further. Drink from 2019.

2016 Château de Cayx Cahors $18
International Wine Report 92 – The Chateau de Cayx Cahors opens to aromas of red berries and cherries that are woven together with spices, licorice, wild lavender and a dash of oak. On the palate this is fresh and inviting with a medium body that is structured with fine tannins and a gorgeous silky texture which continues through the finish.