Italian Reds from North to South

I have one spot available for dinner Sunday at Nonna Carola in Mamaroneck. A survey of some great Italian reds, some with a good degree of maturity, all excellent examples of their regions. And we'll taste blind and try to guess which is which (might not be as easy as it sounds!). Weather should be great for terrace dining.

2010 Foradori Granato, IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti (TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE) $70 (auction price)
Vinous 94+ – The 2010 Granato bursts from the glass with expressive red fruit and bright, floral-inflected aromatics, all supported by the silkiest of tannins. Sweet, perfumed and impeccable, the 2010 impresses for its balance and structure. It is a remarkable wine in every way.

2016 Bramaterra Le Pianelle, DOC Bramaterra (PIEDMONT) $46 (auction price)
Jancis Robinson 17.5/20 – 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 10% Vespolina.
Just mid ruby. Amazing, perfumed red-fruit nose with touches of spice and oatmeal. Elegant, suave red fruit cut through by vibrant acidity and packed with firm, finely chiseled tannins. Great depth and with fantastic chewy tannins on the finish.

2012 Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Gran Selezione, DOCG Chianti Classico (TUSCANY) $87 (auction price)
Wine Advocate 95 – The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is a timeless expression that embraces all the canons of great winemaking. This vineyard-designate expression (Sangiovese and a small part of Cabernet Sauvignon are planted here) boasts a delicately floral side in 2010 with dried violets and blue flower that gracefully lift the bouquet. Beyond the floral tones are shadings of cassis, wet earth, anisette and tobacco.

2012 Galardi Terra di Lavoro, IGP Campania (CAMPANIA) $55 (auction price)
Wine Advocate 94 – From a ten-hectare vineyard, the 2012 Roccamonfina Terra di Lavoro touches on many of the glory points that made this such an important cult wine for Campania. Although 2012 was a hot vintage, this wine shows an impressive sense of balance and elegance. This is especially apparent on the nose where it delivers blasts of dark fruit, balsam herb, tar, licorice and volcanic ash with meticulous precision. The fruit is layered, soft and ripe. This is an open and honest expression of Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso that has only just begun its long evolution. [2015 review]

2017 Polvanera Vigneto Montevella 17, DOC Gioia del Colle (PUGLIA) $40
Vinous 91 – The 2017 Primitivo Vigneto Montevella 17 holds nothing back, boasting a rich display of plum sauce, brown spice, molasses, and hints of camphor. It’s silky and pliant in feel, with waves of ripe black fruits and dark chocolate that coat the palate, just as zesty acids wash it clean. Echoes of salted licorice under an air of tobacco linger through the long and lightly structured finale. The Montevella is a large-scale Primitivo that walks the tightrope of balance, and it does so at a whopping 16.5% abv.

2019 Feudo Montoni del Core Perricone, DOC Sicilia (SICILY) $24
Wine Advocate 92 – The Perricone grape (also known locally as Guarnaccia Nera) offers rich concentration and ample power, but it also shows a rustic side with hints of bramble and bitterness that are part of its DNA. The certified organic Feudo Montoni 2019 Sicilia Perricone Core is very true to the varietal with a noticeable richness, a smoky or spicy character and plenty of sweet cherry and blackberry. The mouthfeel is not too powerful, and the tannins are moderate, but this release of 26,000 bottles remains your proverbial steak wine nonetheless.