Chile

A farewell to summer, in Harper's back garden. Revisiting a category we haven't covered in a while—Chile. Starting with a blockbuster Chardonnay (I've had the '09 vintage, which could have easily passed for a triple-digit white Burgundy). Then a little-known and hard-to-find winemaker I like, Von Siebenthal in Aconcagua, a mountainous region north of the capital. I find their Bordeaux blends age well and could compete with their French counterparts. Then two wines from Viña San Pedro, their flagship Altaïr and their bargain-priced second label Sideral. Most of these wines were obtained at deep discount.

We're starting early, 5 pm, to take advantage of daylight.

2013 Aristos Duquesa d’A Chardonnay, Rapel, Cachapoal Valley $85
Jancis Robinson 18/20 – 100% Chardonnay. Vineyard at 900 m above sea level just in the Andes. Fermented and aged in oak barrels. Produced by Pedro Parra, François Massoc and Louis-Michel Liger-Belair
A very well-made, mature, full wine. An attractive golden colour. Creamy, well worked, consistent, concentrated. A very complex aged wine, notes of very ripe fruit and honeydew in the best of senses. An orthodox wine, full, complete and creamy from start to finish. Overwhelming and with great potential.
2018 Viña Von Siebenthal Parcela #7 Gran Reserva, Aconcagua $10 (Wine Exchange closeout)
Vinous 88 – The 2018 blend Parcela #7 is a blend of 31% Petit Verdot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, and 18% Merlot from Panquehue, Aconcagua, that was barrel-aged for 14 months. Garnet red in hue, it delivers aromas of herb, black currant, and truffle and secondary woody notes.
2018 Viña Von Siebenthal Carmenere, Aconcagua $10 (Wine Exchange closeout)
Not rated. Vivino reviews: “Very smooth, single varietal and good for a tipple without food. Not mouth-puckering but silky. Pepper, cassis, smoke, black plum. [4.1]” “Very complex and ripe nose, some notes of mint and baking spices, some black plum, pepper, and slate. Medium body, very silky tannins and some good acidity. Very well balanced and perfectly ripe. [4.6]”
2018 Aquitania Lazuli Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley $33
Vinous 94 – The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Lazuli from Peñalolén, Maipo Alto, was aged for up to 18 months in 33% new barrels. Vivid garnet in hue. The intense, attractive nose presents notes of mint and black currant with hints of spice and cedar. In the mouth, the tannins are silky and voluminous, with a juicy freshness leading up to the long finish and the fruity, minty aftertaste.
2012 San Pedro Sideral, Cachapoal Valley $15
Wine Enthusiast 89 – This hefty Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend opens with forceful aromas of earthy, herbal red-berry fruits and sweet oak. Chunky, thick, and almost syrupy in feel, this tastes of herbal plum and spiced berry fruits. Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Petit Verdot/Carmenere.
2013 San Pedro Altaïr, Cachapoal Valley $39
Decanter 92 – Baked cherries and pure cassis notes on the nose mingle with nutty oak and a coal cellar character on this big, powerful, sun-drenched wine. It has refinement, purity and offers lots of pleasure and value. Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Syrah.