Cabernet Franc: Italy vs California

I have a couple of spots available for a long-overdue return to Saint George in Hastings, where they have a new $38 prix fixe menu. Theme will be Cabernet Franc—highly rated examples from Italy and California, including the famed Tuscan Paleo. Starter Chardonnay from California. Grab one of the spots if you'd like to go.

https://www.saintgeorgebistro.com/

2018 Ram’s Gate El Diablo Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma $28
Jeb Dunnuck 93 – A single-vineyard release from the Russian River Valley, there are 420 cases produced of the 2018 Chardonnay El Diablo Vineyard. Aged 11 months in 35% new French oak, it has a more subtle style yet still packs plenty of ripe citrus, sautéed lemon, brioche, and honeyed flower notes as well as medium-bodied richness. It's nicely balanced, elegant, and silky on the palate, with good acidity.

2016 Tenuta di Trinoro Campo di Magnacosta, IGT Toscana $65
Wine Advocate 96 – The 2016 Campo di Magnacosta is a single-vineyard expression of the grape born from a 1.5-hectare plot selected by Andrea Franchetti as part of his ongoing efforts to underline the potential of Cabernet Franc in his off-the-beaten-track corner of southern Tuscany. Only 2,100 bottles were produced. Like the other wines in this series, fermentation occurs in stainless steel, and the wine is aged in new barrique for eight months, followed by 11 months in cement. It shows enormous depth and profound flavors of dark fruit, blackberry, spice and tobacco.

2015 Vineyard 29 Cabernet Franc 29 Estate, St. Helena, Napa Valley $85
Wine Advocate 97 – Very deep purple-black colored, the 2015 Cabernet Franc 29 Estate gives up expressive red and black currant preserves with hints of pencil shavings, crushed stones, chargrill and bay leaves plus a waft of roses. Medium to full-bodied, it has gorgeous freshness in the mouth with a chewy frame of tannins and plenty of expressive black and red fruit flavors, finishing long and perfumed. 275 cases were made.

2014 Sinegal Estate Cabernet Franc, St. Helena, Napa Valley $59
Wine Spectator 93 – A smooth, harmonious entry leads to a firm, easy-to-approach mix of savory dark berry, underbrush, cedar, anise and tobacco leaf flavors, with touches of graphite and tar. All in all a compelling, complex effort, where no one element stands out. Drink now through 2028. 150 cases made. 75% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.

2013 Le Macchiole Paleo, Bolgheri, Toscana $100
Wine Advocate 97 – Paleo is a pure expression of Cabernet Franc first made in 2001. The 2013 Paleo shows a soft and feminine side with rose petal, lavender, wet earth, rosemary and dark fruit. These are beautiful but unexpected qualities. The wine is ever so reflective of the grape variety, but it also does a great job of incorporating Tuscan ideals, with sunshine, grace and generosity among them. As you dig deeper, Paleo reveals more surprising layers. The finish is soft and slightly sweet. Paleo reveals something new each time you go back to the glass to take a new sip. This wine promises a long aging future.

2011 Jonata El Alma de Jonata, Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara $51
Wine Advocate 96 – While there was no El Alma produced in 2010 due to late rains, the 2011 El Alma de Jonata is beautiful. Most similar to the 2008, with pure, pretty notes of wild herbs, dark chocolate, tobacco, crushed flowers and currants, it flows onto the palate with beautiful freshness and purity, big richness and a great finish. Give it another couple of years and enjoy it through 2026. Drink 2015-2026.

Jancis Robinson 17.5/20 – 78% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot.
Dusty, sage smudged through spiced cherry and plum pit with flavours of molé and cocoa. Accents of tar. Savoury. Again, a deceptive, unexpected wine – the flavours strike a contrast to the aromatics. Dusty tannins with mouth-watering acidity and a persistent finish. Totally unique. This is a wine with a lot of presence without being aggressive. There is purity here housed in a wine that has a full presence. It wants food and a slower pace to enjoy.