Thursday Virtual Happy Hour: Jura, Savoie, and Bugey

This week, we'll be exploring the various wines from three small wine regions in eastern France that surround Geneva, Switzerland. While finding these wines may prove to be a challenge, examples may be found at Postinos and Turquoise.

Jura is a small wine region in eastern France which is responsible for some traditional and highly idiosyncratic wine styles. Jura's wines are sold under five core appellations. The most quantitatively important of these are Arbois and Côtes du Jura.

Five main grape varieties used in the region's wines – three traditional and two more-modern imports. The first of the local varieties is Poulsard (or Ploussard as it is known in the communes of Arbois and Pupillin), a red grape which accounts for about one-fifth of the region's plantings. Poulsard is used mostly in dry reds, but also in sparkling rose wines. Trousseau, the other local red variety, requires high sunshine levels to mature properly and covers only the warmest five percent of Jura's vineyards. It is grown mostly around Arbois, where it produces a small quantity of varietal wines. White Savagnin (known locally as Nature) is used in all of the region's appellations. It is responsible for the idiosyncratic vins jaunes ('yellow wines'). These are long-lived, bone dry wines aged in barrels under a layer of flor/yeast known as le voile. Vins jaunes may be made under the the Arbois (including Arbois-Pupillin), L'Étoile and Côtes du Jura titles appellations. However they are at their best under the more exclusive Château Chalon AOP. Along with its unique vin jaune, Jura has been known traditionally for its sweet vin de paille made from dried grapes. They are produced under the same appellations, Château Chalon excepted. However, despite the relative isolation of the Jura region, Chardonnay has made inroads here, as it has elsewhere in France, and now accounts for nearly half of Jura's total vineyard. Known locally as Melon d'Arbois and Gamay Blanc, it is most often used to make wines in a fresher, fruitier, modern style. Sparkling wines have been made here since the 18th century. They are now produced from around 210 hectares (520 acres) of vineyards, under the Crémant du Jura appellation introduced in 1995.

Savoie is a wine region in eastern France, in the mountainous areas just south of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and the border with Switzerland. The region's location and geography have very much defined its character, which is fragmented, hilly and slightly Swiss. This is evident in the fresh, crisp white wines made here, as well as in the region's wine labels. Many bear a white cross on a red background – the flag of both Switzerland and Savoie.

Around three-quarters of the region's wines are white. This is primarily because most red varieties would struggle to ripen properly in Savoie's cooler climate. Jacquère is the most widely planted white grape variety, due to its high yield. Altesse, known traditionally here as Roussette, is used to produce some of Savoie's finer wines, specifically under its own Roussette de Savoie and Roussette de Bugey appellations. Roussanne (known locally as Bergeron) also has its own tiny niche just south of Chambéry, where it produces exclusively Chignin-Bergeron wines. Although Savoie is dominated by white wines, it does have a standout red variety: Mondeuse. This is used to produce deeply-colored, peppery wines with a trademark bitterness. Gamay and Pinot Noir are also employed, mostly in varietal wines.

South of Jura and west of Savoie, Bugey combines elements of both mountainous regions of eastern France with a particular focus on sparkling wines. More than half of all Bugey wines are white. Chardonnay is the principal grape variety of the Bugey appellation, and must make up at least 70 percent of Bugey still white wines. Smaller portions of Aligoté, Altesse, Pinot Gris and Jacquère are permitted in the blend, and the sparkling wines may have larger portions of Jacquère and Mondeuse Blanche (locally known as Molette). Bugey reds are made from Gamay, Pinot Noir and Savoie's characteristic Mondeuse. The wines must be varietal, labeled with the variety name after the appellation title. (Roussette du Bugey is also varietal by law: the only permitted grape variety is Altesse.) Rosé wines are usually made from Gamay and/or Pinot Noir. Sparkling Bugey may also be produced. The white is made mainly from Chardonnay, Jacquère and/or Molette. The rosé is principally Gamay and/or Pinot Noir.

## We have a choice of videos to watch including:

1. https://youtu.be/c69GV9S8Okw?si=SEO5ugn9iUEGIhXR - Winecast: The Jura - The Unknown Winecaster (11:53)
2. https://youtu.be/dOZNZt0kczM?si=Z77D3ZrO5wY4k57v - Intro to Savoie wine region. Vins de Savoie - Wine Tuber (4:27)
3. https://youtu.be/DAGJ4pWlGnU?si=C1QAB5zIbOmfhcgS - Savoie - Know Wine In No Time (6:39)
4. https://youtu.be/a2d9XFLLJHg?si=VaTv6OpIHctzB9tY - ottex Vin Du Bugey Cerdon La Cueille NV - Saratoga Wine (2:23)

So, pick up a bottle and watch a couple of videos. Let us know what you’re drinking and eating, and, if possible, the region from which your wine comes. Do you have any comments (positive or negative) about the videos? And, as always, tell us what’s going on in your life - what's happening with you, how you're feeling about things, updates, successes, challenges - as much or as little as you’re willing to disclose. We are in this together. And - thank goodness - we have wine!

Cheers!!