French Fries to Foie Gras

Join us in opening the new year in French-Mediterranean Style at Barbouzard!

The Washington Post review (by Tom Sietsema Sept. 18, 2025)

The crackle of energy whenever a new restaurant debuts reminds me of opening night at the theater. In many cases, the dining room is (over) staffed with a cast of well-rehearsed people, dressed to impress in whatever uniform the owners think represents the theme, everyone eager to introduce you to a concept they hope you enjoy. A new-car smell typically mingles with kitchen aromas.

“Welcome to Barbouzard,” a server says to my posse, launching into a spiel that announces veteran chef Cedric Maupillier, of the late Convivial in Shaw, as the headliner and a theme designed to bring a taste of the French Riviera to downtown Washington. The name, suggested by a friend of principal managing partner Nasr El Hage and rooted in French slang, alludes to the city’s sense of power, intrigue, the clandestine. “Barbouzard means ‘secret agent,’” says our server, whose gaze then pivots to me. “You never know,” he says playfully. “One of you could be a secret agent!”

Maupillier and El Hage met at a Bastille Day party at the French Embassy last year and launched Barbouzard on K Street NW with a cocktail party for friends and supporters July 14 — a year to the day later.

Maupillier seems born for this job. A son of Toulon, the chef has relatives in Cannes and Marseille. (His résumé includes the late Mintwood Place, Central Michel Richard and the long-shuttered Citronelle.) “I want to cook for everybody,” he says, acknowledging that not everyone has “a budget for caviar,” a feature along with shellfish platters at Barbouzard. One of his more gently priced dishes, a rabbit pasta, is $31 and harks back to his youth, when he spent time in Provence, hunting with his grandfather. Maupillier uses ruffled, bell-shaped campanelle, the better to catch juicy bites of braised rabbit, lightly sweet with carrots, woodsy with mushrooms and whisked to the table beneath filings of pecorino.

If you pay any attention to menu categories, an increasing number of restaurants are offering what amount to two sets of appetizers. One is usually described as “snacks” or “bites,” sometimes for sharing; the other is a typical first course. A sly way of getting diners to spend more money? A chance for chefs to put more of their creativity on display? Whatever the reasoning, focus on what the menu at Barbouzard calls “easy to share finger food.”

The showiest of the bunch look like petits fours: bases of brioche layered with foie gras mousse, preserved cherry and port jelly. Each of the five bites of “Foie Gras Opéra” glints with edible gold. “I feel bad about eating this,” says a companion as he pops the rich art into his mouth. Even the more common combinations call to me. Crimson slices of bell pepper slowly cooked in olive oil and paired with Nicoise olives and plump, intense Calabrian anchovies feels like eating red peppers for the first time, and salt cod whipped with potato, olive oil, garlic and thyme and sprinkled with toasted breadcrumbs makes a standout brandade de morue.

Kudos to the restaurant for welcoming more people to the party by flagging dishes that contain nuts and pork and are gluten-free or vegetarian. Cracker-like chickpea pancakes served with a pistachio-colored foam of whipped scallions and cream cheese present like some of the fanciest chips and dip in town.

Your next stops on the menu ought to be crudo and scallops. Maupillier creates what resembles a rose from ribbons of raw tuna, which blossom in a frothy pool of coconut milk and minced bell peppers dotted with cilantro oil. Influencers (aren’t we all these days?) are also likely to snap and post seared scallops interspersed with miniature corn flans in a foamy orange pool coaxed from red curry paste, fish stock, milk and sharpeners including ginger and lemongrass. The dish tastes of sea, summer, the tropics. Chef might consider bottling and selling just the sauce. (Hint, hint.)

This being downtown, the owners thought Maupillier should put steak on the script, which the chef reluctantly did. D.C. is stocked with places that excel at grilled beef, after all. Still, hanger steak served with a bold green peppercorn sauce and housemade fries could compete with the city's best. More novel is a fan of smoked duck, each slice rimmed in a band of flavor-carrying fat, splayed over braised leeks and endive and a dark red beet puree. Orange in different guises lends vibrancy to the main course.

Some lesser moments sneak in, among them the rich-on-rich lobster Américaine, the seafood a little muted, the pasta cooked nearly to mush. I love the sauce, though, a creamy, cognac-laced bisque fueled with lots of flavor from lobster shells. Maupillier is proud of his elegant bouillabaisse, in which the different fish and shellfish are cooked separately and the broth is added at the table. Fans of the traditional, more robust and saucier version of the classic might be disappointed. (In fairness, the dish is listed with quote marks.)

The restaurant doesn’t pause between lunch and dinner. Instead, it offers “golden hour,” during which lighter fare — a wagyu cheeseburger, gazpacho, truffle prosciutto croquettes — is offered. Basically, the amenity is a happy hour that does double duty, playing up the room’s gold accents and its location in the Golden Triangle, downtown’s business district. I can see the room animated with diners who prefer way-late lunches, super-early dinners or anyone who needs a little festivity at odd hours.

Convivial enjoyed a well-deserved reputation for sweet endings, renown that continues at Barbouzard, where the warm date pudding is enhanced with halvah ice cream and a cardamom-infused toffee sauce. Fittingly, one dessert is designed to look like a tin of caviar. In reality, it’s tiramisu paved with chocolate pearls set with chilled oil (hence a shimmer like pricey roe) set in a tin atop faux crushed ice. Very Vegas, the confection goes by “Caviamisu.” The charm award goes to what looks like a pear robed in chocolate, named for the chef’s mother, who adored the dish. Slicing into the dessert, Poire Belle Michèle, reveals a delightful surprise: the form is shaped from hazelnut financier, diced pear, white chocolate and more, then centered in a wavy bowl of marzipan-sweetened custard sauce.

El Hage says he wants to make Barbouzard a dining destination, and he’s off to a strong start. More than $4 million went into the interior whipped up by designer Olvia Demetriou of HapstackDemetriou+. The light fixtures suggest champagne bubbles, the floors are paved with stone or tiles that look like white oak, the ceiling is coffered, and the seating — plush red chairs, cinnamon-colored booths with their own sound systems — is all about your comfort. El Hage says he plans to dim the lights and use blackout shades for future brunch service. Already, a DJ emerges on Friday and Saturday nights, when the owner hopes “After Dark” catches nightcappers.

Is now a proper moment to talk about luxury dining? The times are some of the most sobering I can remember in the past 25 years, what with wage hikes, the federal takeover of DC police and ICE crackdowns on immigrants. I point this out to say the word “restaurant” comes from a French verb that means “to restore” and that eating establishments are, good times and bad, the backdrop to many of our lives — indeed, some of them make life more worth living. Barbouzard aspires to help light the way.

Looking forward to sharing this experience with you!

Check out menus here

We ask that ALL folks honor their RSVP. If you are unable to attend after sending in a YES, please update your status so that others may join. In the event our group incurs a fee for no-shows / late cancellations, your ability to RSVP for future events will be restricted. Thank you in advance for your understanding.

WAITLIST:
Meetup does not allow a waitlist for paid events. If this event fills and you are interested in adding your name to the waitlist, please send host a message through the app. *Note: Event fee is non-refundable*

In the future, we will vary the days of the week and the types of restaurants so that we can attract many different types of diners. Feel free to make suggestions for future meet locations. All diners will pay their own tab. before departing the event.

If you are unable to join us in January we hope you'll stay interested and join us for a meal in the future. Looking forward to catching up with you for a fantastic dinner at Barbouzard!

Join us to enjoy an exclusive 5-course tasting menu ($100/pp) at Chef Edward Lee's groundbreaking restaurant - Shia - in the Union Market District!

Note from SHIA: Due to our committment to sustainability and preventing food waste, we prepare specific ingredients for each guest daily. A charge of $85 per guest will be applied to any cancellations within 48 hours of the booking.

$85 Event Registration fee will be applied to each guests's bill. Event registration fee is only refundable if the seat is filled by another guest prior to the dinner. Thank you for your understanding.

**Note from Shia re:Dietary Restrictions:**
Due to the inclusion of ingredients integral to Korean culture and cuisine, we cannot accommodate the following dietary restrictions: celiac, soy, legume, nightshade vegetable, or allium. We can accommodate vegan, vegetarian, pescatarian, seafood allergies, shellfish allergies, and nut allergies. The adjusted dishes our chefs have created for these dietary restrictions will be vegetarian, as we do not have the ability to substitute proteins. Individuals with aversions to seafood may not fully enjoy the experience, as a large portion of our menu is seafood-based at this time. Please note that our kitchen operates on a minimal-waste, sustainability-driven model. This means we do not stock additional ingredients for last-minute changes. If we receive notice less than 48 hours before your reservation, we may need to omit elements of dishes rather than substitute additional ingredients. Please let us know right away so we can prepare with care.

The Washington Post (Sietsema)

Over my decades-long watch, few restaurant genres have witnessed more changes in and around Washington than Korean.

Back in 2000, the majority of sources were in the Virginia suburbs, where the menus mostly revolved around tried-and-true mandu, bulgogi, seafood pancakes and barbecue. Before the rise of social media, restaurants that specialized in certain dishes — say, Tosokjip in Annandale, known for its grilled fish and stews — existed under the radar, supported primarily by the Korean community, recalls restaurateur Danny Lee, one of the agents for change on the D.C. scene.

Over the years, practitioners started cooking outside the lines and experimenting with fusion. The arrival of Lee’s Chiko and Anju in the District saw chefs feeding us Korean fused with Chinese American ideas and serving upscale homestyle cooking. Service (and alcohol beyond beer and soju) became a priority at restaurants including Ingle Korean Steakhouse in Vienna, and Korean chefs, following the lead of the trailblazing Atomix in New York, hopped on the fine-dining bandwagon with tasting menus. I miss the short-lived Incheon in Annandale but welcome the youthful Onggi in Dupont Circle.

Since November, chef and cookbook author Edward Lee is pushing the envelope even more, with a gem called Shia — “seed” in Korean — tucked in the Union Market District. It’s a slip of a place with a dozen seats in the front bar and nearly double that number in a narrow dining room behind a slatted maple door. What distinguishes Shia from the pack is that it’s part of the chef’s nonprofit, the LEE Initiative, originally introduced as a mentoring program. Further, Shia is experimenting with all manner of limited-waste and sustainable practices, which is why some drinks arrive sans garnishes, and there’s no gas and zero plastic. After the kitchen turns them into pulp, used cocktail napkins and printer tickets enjoy afterlives as postcards and coasters.

No one preaches here, by the way; they just quietly set good examples. Lee wants his clientele to experience Shia as a restaurant vs. a lecture hall.

“This is how we say hello,” says a server as he places a little cup in front of us, trailed by a snack: a hot oyster and scallop bundled in jin, or seaweed. The dish, which you eat with your hands, marries hot seafood, cool Asian pear and spicy ssamjang, an exquisite bite that’s gone as fast as you can read this sentence. The contents of the cup, a tea made with soju and dried omija berries, are refreshingly sweet-tart.

Guests seated at the bar are offered a five-course menu; those seated in the dining room, host to the open kitchen, receive seven courses. Shia remains enough of a tough reservation that I’ve been able to secure a seat only in the lounge, a serene space with gold lights, a concave ceiling and wallpaper that depicts clouds mingling with mountains.

Scrolls of amberjack arranged on thin red rings of fermented fish paste and lemon juice are topped with little balls of foam that taste like kimchi “air.” (The finishing touch demonstrates Shia’s no-waste goal; the cloud is excess liquid from making kimchi, passed through an aerator.) The lovely fish dish is a spin on the refreshing Korean summer dish mul hwe, to which a delicate, fresh-tasting green chip is added. (The fillip turns out to be hand-harvested gamtae, the rarest of seaweeds in Korea.) We miss the small plate when it’s gone, but only until the pork belly replaces it. Finger lengths of the braised meat share a canvas with abalone and clams scattered on a soothing porridge of barley, buckwheat, millet and three kinds of rice infused with dashi. “Try to get a bite in each bite,” a server coaches my party. Rising from the center is a little tower of fierce white kimchi, which the server says to save for last, “but you do you.”

Some nights look like an evening out in Seoul. My visits found different generations of Koreans sharing Lee’s handiwork, a reality the chef addresses with menus printed in Korean as well as English. The owner sees adventure-seeking younger Koreans come in to check the place out, then return with their parents to share the novelty. The Korean menu is meant to make older customers “feel at home.”

Surely the saengseon contributes to the sentiment. A square of seared braised sea bass — line-caught, of course — lounges in a liquid salad of crisp greens and broth and practically demands my return engagement. The intoxicating flavor of the soup springs from what Max Chuvalas, who shares the executive-chef title with Chaelin Lee, calls a “fish tea,” an elixir coaxed from fish scraps and white kimchi juice.

I also admire the duck, glazed with Korean mustard and presented so the sliced meat alternates with same-sized pieces of gently crisp mountain yam. The accompanying steamed rice, offered in a raised wooden bowl and bulked up with ginkgo nuts, aster, shepherd’s weed and thistle, nearly steals the show. The greens are another salute to sustainability: “Where Americans might see weeds, Koreans see edible flora,” says Chuvalas, who comes to Shia from Dirty Habit but has worked in fine-dining restaurants before. Those who opt for five courses choose between the fish and the duck. The seven-course plan includes both indulgences. My strategy at the bar with a companion has been to order one of each and share tastes.

When I first started as The Washington Post’s critic, Asian desserts were mostly predictable. Green tea ice cream was almost always involved. Shia demonstrates how far the scene has come, with endings including bruleed bananas staged with banana chips, same-flavored ice cream and soy chocolate sauce, a fruit salad that changes with the season but always looks like a brilliant orchard, and a honey tuile hovering over apricot foam. The longer script in the dining room embraces extra sweets — caramels and what tastes like a pecan pie from Korea (pine nuts and dates are involved) — revealed in a handsome mirrored box.

In recent years, chefs of all stripes have gotten better about offering tasting menu portions that are neither too tiny nor too filling. No one feels compelled to go to the Golden Arches after a meal at Shia, nor will they feel the need to let out their belt. “I’m 53,” says Lee. “As I get older, I don’t have the patience for 20 courses and three hours” of sitting and eating. The chef feels that seven courses, the max here, honors “efficiency and variety.”

Hear! Hear! And go! Go!
Looking forward to sharing this experience with you!

Menus change seasonally. Please see latest menu and information on new dishes on menu on OpenTable here and Instagram page.

We ask that ALL folks honor their RSVP. If you are unable to attend after sending in a YES, please update your status so that others may join. In the event our group incurs a fee for no-shows / late cancellations, your ability to RSVP for future events will be restricted. Thank you in advance for your understanding.

WAITLIST:
Meetup does not allow a waitlist for paid events. If this event fills and you are interested in adding your name to the waitlist, please send host a message through the app.

In the future, we will vary the days of the week and the types of restaurants so that we can attract many different types of diners. Feel free to make suggestions for future meet locations. All diners will pay their own tab. before departing the event.

If you are unable to join us in February we hope you'll stay interested and join us for a meal in the future. Looking forward to catching up with you for a fantastic dinner at Shia!

Our NEIGHBORHOOD GEMS series features emblematic meals from around the world. This series shines a light on local restaurants and is designed to bring together inquisitive foodies and dishes that are unique and oh so worth a trip on roads less traveled!

Join us for playful Indian-ish food at the communal table at Tapori !

Eater DC
On March 12, two days before the H street's anticipated South Asian restaurant opened, head chef Baburam Sharma finally touched down in D.C. After developing Tapori's menu over Zoom for over a year, months of visa delays, and over 20 hours of travel from Nepal, Sharma headed directly from his hotel to the Northeast kitchen that executive chef Suresh Sundas had built for them

I just put my luggage in the room and came here, and we started prep,” he recounted. Sundas, who has been recognized by the Michelin Guide for his inventive cooking at neighborhood spot Daru, says that he and Sharma immediately clicked. They had been workshopping a complex menu spanning popular street foods from all over India and their shared birthplace of Nepal while 7,000 miles apart. But once they were together, those dishes evolved even more.

From workshopping new ingredients, like pesto and pine nuts in the fragrant mushroom pilau, to finally having Sharma’s expertise on South Indian techniques, they began to perfect Tapori’s key dishes.

These three represent their commitment to recreating South Asian street foods from distinct regions in an American kitchen: momos from Nepal; dosas from Tamil Nadu; and bison phav bhaji from Mumbai.

Jhol Momo - Sharma explains that while there are only two Himalayan snacks on the menu, one of them had to be a momo. “The most selling item in Nepal is the momo,” he said. “You will find the momo everywhere, every state... even in India.”

The steamed dumplings from Nepal and Tibet are usually filled with vegetables or minced meat, traditionally chicken, pork, or lamb. For Sundas, the lesser known wagyu beef momo at Tapori is an homage to a food memory from 45 years ago that still haunts him.

A momo shop a block away from his father’s business was his daily indulgence while growing up in Nepal. He still smiles as he describes “the smell of that momo… Oh my god.” He’s been trying to recreate that “texture of the wrap” and meat filling ever since, but he’s never been able to without those “pure local ingredients.” So he decided he would do something more original.

Instead of a small bowl of richly flavored broth sometimes served beside momos in Nepal, the wagyu beef momos at Tapori come swimming in a chicken stock that is simmered for four hours and seasoned with Nepalese session peppers, garlic, and leeks. The wagyu filling is seasoned simply as well, with chili, ginger, cilantro, and a little soy sauce. The similar seasonings meld together the two different proteins, while a bit of cilantro oil drizzled on at the end cuts through the rich flavors.

Podi Masala Dosa - Sundas was laser-focused on producing the best dosa possible: “Every single day we are working on it together,” he says. He had started his culinary career in D.C. in 2007 working at South Indian restaurants and he knew that he had to show diners “the taste of a very authentic dosa.” He found many dosas in the District were more crepe-like. They were missing that sour fermented flavor and thin texture with a satisfying crunch. That’s where Sharma came in. He had started his career in five-star hotel kitchens in the southernmost state of Tamil Nadu and had made dozens of dosa almost daily for 15 years.

They create Tapori’s creamy and fermented batter over two days. The process of soaking the lentils and rice for at least four hours and cleaning the grains 10 to 12 times is repeated twice before they are ground up in a specially-ordered, massive dosa grinder from India, which they converted themselves to work with an American power grid. Salt and sugar are added for an eight-hour fermentation period to keep the batter at room temperature overnight.

Sundas and Sharma are also grilling up each dosa at Tapori right now, expertly spreading out and flipping 40 to 50 a day with an “intuition” that comes with years of practice. The flavor punch of podi masala, a combination of seeds and spices known as gunpowder seasoning, plus a potato filling and nutty ghee that are added to the batter as it fries up on their grill. It’s served with an array of stews and coconut chutney, though that crispy texture and spicy, fermented flavor makes it easy to eat on its own.

Sundas says that labor intensive process pays off when Indian and Indian American diners tell him that the dosa is “exactly how they got it in India.”

Bison Phav Bhaji - Tapori is named after rowdy Mumbai street culture, so it had to include the city’s favorite internationally-influenced street food: phav bhaji. The hearty snack is comprised of buttered buns (originally from Portuguese immigrants) and stewed potato and pea curry, but Sundas wanted to create a flavorful meat version that stood out from the chicken or fish dishes on the menu.

After trying to source local water buffalo meat from West Virginia, he finally settled on bison from Texas that’s cooked down with tomato paste, onion, minced garlic, green chili, and cumin paste. Cilantro and butter are added after a little over a half hour of stewing to balance out the heavy umami flavors. The buns add even more butter to the mix with a recipe that was developed in-house. The chefs are proofing and baking the buns themselves on Tuesday and Wednesday, with the total process taking about three hours. On busier weekend shifts, artisan wholesale bakery Uptown Bakers makes buns based on the Tapori team’s original recipe.

Why create your own buns half the week when you have a great supplier? It’s the same reason that Sundas and Sharma fold fresh momos if they run out of their prepped dumplings after a long night of service. They’ll dig into the dough and wagyu filling they saved for the next day instead of saying they’re sold out, because they’re devoted to making each dish perfectly for every customer that walks through Tapori’s door.

Check out the menu here

Separate checks will be arranged in advance. All diners will settle their own tabs.

We ask that ALL folks honor their RSVP. If you are unable to attend after sending in a YES, please update your status so that others may join and help us support local businesses. In the event our group incurs a fee for no-shows / late cancellations, your ability to RSVP for future events will be restricted. Thank you in advance for your understanding.

To enhance the opportunity for great conversation, we will continue to limit the group size. Please feel free to sign-up to meet us along with up to 4 friends.

** WAITLIST: Meetup does not allow waitlists for paid events. If this event fills and you would like to be added to the waitlist, please send a note to the host through the Meetup app. **

In the future, we will vary the days of the week and the types of restaurants to keep events interesting.

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ARE COMMITTED TO GO WHEN YOU RSVP FOR THIS EVENT. Feel free to make suggestions for future meet locations.

** The small non-refundable registration fee helps us share the cost associated with the Meet-Up platform ($360/yr) and reduces the likelihood of no-shows, allowing us to better plan our events and accommodate all participants. Meetup charges $0.51 and Paypal charges $0.53 on the $2 registration fee. Thanks in advance for your understanding!**

If you are unable to join us in February, we hope you'll stay interested and join us for a meal in the future. Looking forward to catching up with you for a delightful dinner at Tapori!