Neighborhood Gems: Dishes you can't find in DC at Chef Tan!
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Our NEIGHBORHOOD GEMS series features emblematic meals from around the world. This series shines a light on local restaurants and is designed to bring together inquisitive foodies and dishes that are unique and oh so worth a trip on roads less traveled!
Join us for authentic Hunan & Szechuan dishes at Chef Tan!
From Washington Post
Chef Tan invites diners to experience the tongue-tingling pleasures of one of China’s great cuisines in an understated Vienna strip mall.
When Chef Tan opened in Vienna last July, the restaurant had no website and initially offered neither takeout nor delivery. Albert Yang, the restaurant’s regional manager, believed that diners should experience Hunan cooking at its freshest and most vibrant. “If you pack it to deliver, the color, the oil, the meat will change,” he says. This was a sacrifice he wasn’t willing to make, even if it meant losing business.
Because of the low-key opening, I didn’t get wind of Chef Tan until February. Others had clearly beaten me to the punch. On my first visit, all but the large banquet tables in the handsome, wood-paneled dining room were occupied by chattering friends. Soon, my own table filled. Thinly sliced pork belly buried under waxy, modestly spicy green peppers. Morsels of chicken sweetly perfumed with ginger and surrounded by chopped red chiles packing merciless, browbeating heat. Tender slivers of lamb, ornamented with grassy cilantro and mild, neatly diced red peppers.
As I inhaled steam abundant with chopped chiles, pungent fermented peppers and dark, sharp vinegar, I understood Yang’s stubbornness. This was not food destined for a takeout container. I floated back to the parking lot, in awe of the mastery quietly playing out between a paint supply store and a beer and wine shop in this Northern Virginia strip mall.
When your server arrives with a mortar and pestle, it initiates a little table theater at Chef Tan. They slowly agitate the contents of the bowl, breaking through a layer of finely chopped green chiles and fermented bean curd to reveal strands of eggplants and wobbling, jet-black “century” eggs. If you’re unfamiliar, they’ll explain each ingredient, talking you through the curing process that gives these eggs their striking color and butter-rich texture.
“Instead of just providing the best taste, we also want to show some culture and immersive experience,” says Albert Yang. In a region where these chile-prickling, ferment-tingling dishes are nearly impossible to find, Chef Tan serves each one with a sense of great duty. If this is your first taste of Hunan cooking, you should love it. And Chef Tan is easy to love.
Owner Kevin Tan hails from the riverside city of Hengyang, as do many of the restaurant’s cooks, and dishes from their hometown shine. In lufen, springy rice noodles come in a concentrated stock warmed with anise and cinnamon, laid with thin strips of beef shank and a handful of crunchy peanuts. In another dish, the noodles float in a light seafood stock lit with green chile heat and packing seasonal vegetables and fillets of dense, flaky fish. Yang says his homesick friends once drove as far as New York for a taste of home. Chef Tan brought relief.
Though the menu includes a small section of Chinese American standbys, the best way to orient if you feel a little lost is to take stock of what neighboring tables are eating and follow their lead. This is how I first came to know the pleasure of little river snails stir-fried with pickled long beans and the grassy nuances of tender lamb cooked with cilantro. Best of all, after four visits to my new favorite Chinese restaurant, I’ve barely scratched the surface.
Check out the menu here
Separate checks will be arranged in advance. All diners will settle their own tabs.
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In the future, we will vary the days of the week and the types of restaurants to keep events interesting.
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** The small non-refundable registration fee helps us share the cost associated with the Meet-Up platform ($360/yr) and reduces the likelihood of no-shows, allowing us to better plan our events and accommodate all participants. Meetup charges $0.51 and Paypal charges $0.53 on the $2 registration fee. Thanks in advance for your understanding!**
If you are unable to join us in June, we hope you'll stay interested and join us for a meal in the future. Looking forward to catching up with you for an wonderful dinner at Chef Tan!
