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Upcoming events (5)
Mt. Hood 11,240' South Side climb. Mt. Hood is a Grade 1 Alpine climb on the South Routes via the Old Chute or Pearly Gates. This means it has objective hazard (some icefall, bergschrund crossing, some heights exposure and is challenging physically(+5,000' vert.) but still a very good beginner/intermediate Alpine climb.
This will be my 12th time leading a team climb on Mt. Hood.
What to expect, Our climb will be 90% through the south side snowfields of Mt. Hood and 1/2 on the cat track. We will take a break every hour on our way up. Pace will be as fast/slow as to be able to hold a conversation with those climbers around you while walking. Below the Hogsback (@10,500') we will don helmets/harness. Our route will depend on conditions but i'm favoring the Pearly Gates up and Old Chute down for you to get the most experience out of your climb on Mt. Hood. I may place a fixed rope in the Gates for us to ascend safely. Post climb- Lunch at Mt. Hood Brewery in Government Camp. This trip is for you so don’t hesitate to take pics! (except when ice is falling from above)
We will meet at Timberline at 3AM for our ascent. We will park close to the climbers cave near the ski lodge HQ. We will get permits (FREE!) then i will do introduction, gear check and liability waiver sign.
Headlight w/fresh batteries
Sunglasses/glacier goggles or goggles
Windproof coat-single layer gore-tex pref.
Soft shell or fleece shirt
Harness- Alpine bod is 40$ and perfect for Alpine climbs.
2 locking pearabiners
Rappel device-ATC or figure 8 type
2 non locking biners
1 6mm 6-10’ cordellette- used for fixed rope
Long underwear-light version
Soft shell pants
Crampons which fit your boots
Ice axe 55-70cm preffered
2nd ice axe/ice tool welcome
3 liters water
Gloves 3 pair light/medium/heavy
Trekking poles with snow baskets
Emergency Rescue Beacon
2nd ice axe
Equipment not needed-
Boundry Peak via Queen Canyon Trailhead. This is a hike to the highest point in Nevada and a box check on 1 of the 50 state high points. Do not sign up for this event unless you plan on booking lodging very soon at the Benton Hot Springs or if you are prone to getting altitude sickness. Benton Hot Springs is a very popular place and the Cabins, rooms and camp sites fill up quickly. I originally planned this for a weekend but it is already full. There are little to no services within 50 miles of the trailhead, the hot springs are it. You could potentially stay at a nearby town like Hawthorn and meet us at the trailhead or hot springs early in the morning. Either way you must plan ahead.
Someone will ask it so I will answer it, yes you could sleep at the trailhead but it sounds miserable. The trailhead is at 10,000 feet with limited services. The water reported there is seasonal.
I will be driving down June 9th with my family and have rented a cabin. As of writing this there were 4 camp sites with spring fed hot tubs still available. 7 rooms at the inn and 1 cabin still available.
June 10th, hike day. We will all depart at around 7:30am, sign waivers and head up Queen Canyon Rd. Apparently the crux of the climb is the road up. I can take 4 people with me but we will need another vehicle with 4 wheel drive to make the trip. The trailhead is at around 10,000 feet near the old fluorite mine. You are also welcome to just meet us at the trailhead at 8:15 am. We will embark from there. Wild horses are routinely spotted in the area so bring your camera. ***There is no water at the trailhead and it is literally in the middle of nowhere. Round trip looks like a 7-8 hour hike. Head home Friday, June 11th.
What to bring:
Food and plenty of water, 3 litres for climb day+ an extra gallon at least for the car.
Your vehicle with a full tank of gas.
Spring/summer hiking gear complete with rain jacket and pants.
Waterproof hiking boots
Micro spikes or crampons, there could be a small amount of snow on top.
Sorry, no dogs.
Notice: Climbers who bail from my climbs at the last minute will LIKELY be bumped from future climbs for people on the waiting list that do not habitually bail at the last minute. Consider yourself warned.
Please read, understand and agree in entirety-
Saturday July 3rd/ Broken Top climb America's Independence Flag Climb- a day early.
I've got 8 permits and am looking for 7 friends to help me carry the US flag to the top of a very crumbly mountain in celebration of our nation’s independence. America!
With your help we will sing the national anthem on top. This area is a sacred place to me.
Broken Top is an alpine rock climb. Grade 1, class 4, with exposure. The Northwest ridge is the easiest route. It is a 10 hour+ day over 13 miles and +3,700' ele. gain. The climb is 90% hiking then scrambling, next a 12' ledge rock climb and climaxing in 3 exposed catwalks to the amazing summit! We will fly the US flag and give the hikers on South Sister something to talk about.
Prerequisites- Know how to belay and rappel and be comfortable on exposed catwalks without ropes. They are crumbly and exposed. We will be belaying and rappelling the 12' step, not the catwalks.
I am not a mountain guide, nor do I hold myself out to be one. I joined this group to find and meet up with others that enjoy hiking and climbing mountains as much as I do. Oregon Alpine Project is not a guide service. There is no fee or service, or a fee for service. I have zero, zip, zilch formal training other than what I have learned form years of climbing. If you are looking for a guided climb up Broken Top, please call a reputable guide service. There are many and they are worth every penny you will pay them. They will rope every inch of this climb while we will NOT be. I do not have the skills to properly set protection on some of the worst rock in Oregon nor do I see how one would be able to safely do so. We are friends, who will help each other to the top of the mountain. Nothing more.
This will be my 6th time climbing Broken Top, I’ve done 4 times to the true summit, 1 time to the South Summit.
Itinerary- Meet at Green Lakes TH at 7:34. Read and sign Oregon Alpine Project liability waiver. Read and sign my waver. Hike out the Green Lakes Trail @5 miles to the climbers trail to the Northwest Ridge. Fill up our waters at one of the best springs in Oregon. Ascend ridge, put on helmets/harness at large spire below the 12' ledge. Climb ledge and traverse exposed catwalks to summit. Return same route. Rappel off ledge. Descend back to the amazing spring for a high five and soak.
Then back to Green Lakes TH.
Post Climb 5-6pm - Beverages at my truck.
Helmet, sunglasses, sunscreen
2 liters water, we can refill at the spring.
harness, 2 locking carabiners, rappel/belay device, prussic cord
trail shoes/trailrunners with small gaiters recommended
Long sleeve workout shirt,>5hrs in the sun-recommended
After trip beverage
1-30m Rope, anchor, medical kit
Sterri pen for water, I will bring
It is going to be hot, the spring will be amazing! Photo used without permission. Oh wait, its mine. No guests, no dogs.